Lecithin
Lecithin is derived from egg yokes, soybeans and corn. Has a softening and soothing effect on skin. A natural antioxidant and emollient. Emollients make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce rough feeling, cracking and irritation. Lecithin is made up of many different phospholipids, which occur naturally and are emulsifiers.
Phospholipids are a principal component of human cell membranes. Their structures allow special protein molecules to selectively transport ions through membranes. Phospholipids look like triglycerides except that one of the fatty acid chains is substituted by the phosphor compound, phosphate ester. The phosphor compound increases the water affinity of glyceride, giving it the ability to work as an emulsifier.
Lecithin is a super skin restorative agent and moisturizer. It has the ability to penetrate the epidermis and carry substances to the right cell level. They also can form cell-like structures called liposomes. A liposome are formed when a group of phospholipids are placed on the skin; they spontaneously arrange themselves to match their water loving heads together and their oil loving tails together to form a microscopic sphere. These spheres are similar in construction to an actual cell membrane. They are then able to pass through the epidermis and act as a carrier of substances that attach themselves.
Phospholipids in studies were found to be hygroscopic, which means they attract water from the surrounding air and hold hydration in place. They help increase hydration levels in the skin without modifying the water loss rate of the skin. Phosphatidylcholine, which is one component of lecithin has a high percentage of unsaturated fatty acid chains, 70% linoleic acid and 6% linolenic acid, which in Europe is referred to as Vitamin F. Vitamin F has been found to be critical for fat metabolism and for the release of fat from fatty tissues.
A recent German study concluded that linoleic acid one of the most valuable ingredients in cosmetics. The study found that a shortage in linoleic acid increased acne formation. Also they found that the water loss form skin is inversely proportional to the linoleic acid content of the skin.
